British food has gone largely uncelebrated for centuries, with our continental neighbours long held up as the true connoisseurs of cuisine. But more recently, we’ve become far less coy about admitting our culinary talents, and at least one area of food production we’re really rather good at is making cheese.
With over 700 varieties to choose from, there’s really no need to be swayed by the pungent allure of French, Spanish and Italian cheeses, with their greater food miles and higher prices. So why are so many people still far less with the tastiest cheeses produced on their own soil? It’s partly due to a rediscovery of the traditional, home-grown methods that appeals to those embracing Slow Food, partly because the industry itself is still thriving in an otherwise struggling economy and partly just because the products themselves are so undeniably tasty!
If you’re lucky enough to live near a specialist cheesemonger like La Fromagerie in London (an excellent vendor of home-grown cheeses despite its distinctly Gallic name), or any supermarket with a well-stocked deli, you’ll have no problem discovering the myriad varieties on each visit, as they change with the seasons. But the best way to experience British cheese is to go direct to the artisan makers who use traditional methods to hone their skills to perfection.
One way to do this is to attend farmers’ markets and cheese festivals. Most festivals take place in the Autumn, but due to its slow maturation and production time, cheese is very much an all-year-round product, meaning you’ll find different varieties cropping up all the time. Another option is to order artisan cheese online: Granary Deli in Wallington has a particularly impressive range of mail-order cheeses.
There are so many great reasons for developing a taste for locally-produced foods, and we’re lucky that here in the UK our rich cheese industry makes that learning curve so easy. If ‘British cheese’ to you still means vacuum-packed Cheddar, stinky Stilton and bland Cheshire, then I suggest you start with three varieties that have enjoyed a recent popularity surge: Cornish Yarg, wrapped in wild garlic leaves, Waterloo: a deliciously mild and creamy brie alternative or Dovedail: a creamy, soft mild blue.
Finally, one little-known benefit of British cheeses of particular interest to vegetarians is that the vast majority are made without animal rennet. Visit any well-stocked cheese room with varieties from around the world, and you’ll soon see that vegetarian cheeses are far harder to come by in France, Spain or Italy. Cheese is an excellent source of protein for those following a meat-free diet, so this detail can be of huge significance to vegetarians.
Photo: The British Cheese Board
