It shouldn’t go together, but it works: bánh mì

Saturday, September 19th, 2009
It shouldnât go together, but it works: bánh mì It shouldnât go together, but it works: bánh mì
Like chilli and chocolate or snails and porridge, when it comes to food, sometimes the more inexplicable the better. And so it is with bánh mì, the Vietnamese sandwich.

Made with a slim, crisp baguette, it’s not the Franco-Vietnamese combination that jars, but the sandwich/slow food pairing that confounds. Fast and convenient is what a sandwich is prized for, but these aren’t the words that generally make food lover’s hearts go all a flutter. However, this is why the bánh mì (say “BUN-mee”) is a sandwich with a difference.

The bánh mì comprises of a very crusty baguette, made with both wheat and rice flour, which is filled with copious yet civilised amounts of creamy pork liver pâté and generously stuffed with Vietnamese goodies such as pickled vegetables, tasty cold cuts, pork roll, mayonnaise and zingy, fresh herbs.

Urban Americans have taken the bánh mì into their hearts (and stomachs) with Time Out New York even running a ‘Best new bánh mì’ award. Sydney also has a thriving bánh mì scene, and in London, Vietnamese cafes and food markets like Broadway Market are also starting take notice.

So what makes this humble sandwich so special? Despite its sandwich label, a proper bánh mì takes time, attention and commitment, the secret of which very few bánh mì makers are willing to share. According to the New York Times, the freshness of the bread is crucial. Baguettes need to be baked fresh in the morning and then reheated to order. But like snails and porridge, or that other inexplicable Vietnamese combination – weasel coffee – we’re happy to keep our minds and our mouths, open.

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Alaina
Alaina
An online editor and journalist who has written for The Guardian, Vogue.com, Soho House and handbag.com, there's very little Alaina Vieru won't pursue in the name of journalism from sex toys to Tony Blair (luckily, not at the same time). Very happy to potter along in the Slow lane, Alaina often can be found wandering the shops of Lamb's Conduit Street and waxing lyrical about both shoes and what she last ate.

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