Culinary fads come and go, but one thing that all diners seem to agree on is that nothing tastes quite as good as home-cooked food. It has a certain honesty and a wholesomeness to it that restaurants have long tried and failed to re-create.
But for those who long for the taste of home away from home, there’s now another option: supperclubs. These underground, not-strictly-legal eateries are springing up in private premises all over the world, opening up a whole new dimension in dining.
Supperclubs appeal to more adventurous diners for all sorts of reasons: some go for the element of surprise, not knowing quite what to expect from a restaurant that’s off the beaten track. Others love the personal touch of arriving at their host’s home for a special, one-off meal, observing the preparation and enjoying a unique dialogue with the chef. Others still just can’t resist the chance to snoop around a stranger’s house, get to know a bit about their life and meet similarly-minded people.
Ms Marmite Lover, owner of The Underground Restaurant, a supperclub that seats up to 26 diners in her North London home, told us that many of her guests cite financial reasons as a motivation for choosing supperclubs over traditional restaurants: “At supperclubs you get a whole meal for one price, so you can afford the whole experience, you are not counting your pennies and thinking can we afford pudding”. There’s also the sheer variety you’ll see, as a trip to a supperclub is a voyage to the unknown: “Some are in posh houses, others in council flats, sheds, suburban flats – the variety is part of the fun. I think you need to be open minded when you go.”
Portion size is also a big draw for foodies, and the home-cooking element can mean simpler ingredients and fewer additives for the health-conscious. But probably the main difference between supperclubs and restaurants is the social element: Ms Marmite Lover stressed that supperclubs are “great for networking and combating city alienation and loneliness”, making them an ideal choice for singles. It’s quite possible to go to a supperclub alone, get chatting to your fellow diners and make friends: this seldom happens in conventional restaurants.
Most supperclubs in the UK are still to be found in London, but they’re appearing all over the country. If you’re curious about underground dining you may want to try The Shed (literally a restaurant in a shed); The Underground Restaurant, as above, is great for vegetarian and pescetarian diners; Horton Jupiter’s Secret Ingredient, which specialises in Japanese fare; The Civet Cat club in Newington Green; the Savoy Truffle club- a ‘pop-up’ restaurant in Blackheath; Joginders supperclub in Tufnell park or The Altenburg kitchen in Clapham.
Images: Shunafish
